A life-cycle of a fish英语作文8句话

A life-cycle of a fish英语作文8句话
A life-cycle of a fish英语作文8句话

A life-cycle of a fish英语作文8句话
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What's the key to healthy fish?...a tank with denitrifying bacteria. You need them to "clean up" the ammonia from fish waste or your fish will surely die.
Why does this method work so efficiently...

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What's the key to healthy fish?...a tank with denitrifying bacteria. You need them to "clean up" the ammonia from fish waste or your fish will surely die.
Why does this method work so efficiently? ...MICROBIOLOGY 101
All the factors, collectively, will produce the maximum amount of bacterial load in the shortest amount of time! A thick substrate/big surface area, dechlorinated water, high loading dose of ammonia followed by low maintenance dosing. Not a cold room temperature. All add up to a cycled aquarium in about ONE WEEK! It's basic microbiology!
Cycling with Pure Ammonia...Fast, Cheap, Safe, and 100% Effective!
Things you need:
1) Clear ammonia (unscented, no perfumes, no color) - shake the bottle...if there are suds...you picked the wrong one
2) An Ammonia Test Kit (the liquid/vial kind...not the paper strips) - it's more accurate
3) A water conditioner/de-chlorinator (something that removes chlorine) - CHLORINE KILLS BACTERIA...YOU WANT BACTERIA!
4) Substrate (rocks, about 1 to 1 1/2 inches deep in your tank) - bacteria need a surface to grow on

What to do:
YOUR GOAL IS TO GO FROM A TANK WITH 0.0 PPM OF NITRATES TO HIGH NITRATES (8.0 OR MORE), BACK DOWN TO 0.0 PPM. THIS IS THE NITROGEN CYCLE.
Day 1
Put the rocks in your tank...set it up the way you want it to look ultimately. Avoid putting live plants at first(they take nutrients away from the water that the bacteria will use). If you have to put the live plants in, it's okay to do so, it will just add cycling time. Fill with water, condition the water according to the instructions on the dechlorinator bottle. Turn your filtration system on. If you're using activated charcoal, DO NOT USE it till after your cycle is complete. Using it will increase your cycling time. ADD 5 DROPS OF AMMONIA FOR EVERY 10 GALLONS OF WATER. Avoid using an air conditioner...try to keep the room temperature comfortable but not cold. If you have to use your AC then use an aquarium heater to bring the water temp to a level that the fish will live in, around 72 to 82 degrees is an average for tropical freshwater fish.
Day 2
Test the water for ammonia levels. The standard test kit in the above photos, shows a sample reading. You're shooting to get the reading at the highest ppm level (8.0). If it hasn't reached this level, ADD ANOTHER 5 DROPS OF AMMONIA FOR EVERY 10 GALLONS OF WATER. If it has reached 8.0 ppm, then just add 2-3 drops of ammonia.
Day 3
In my experience, a long 30 gallon tank will reach the 8.0 ppm mark in 2-3 days. Test the water for ammonia. If it's reached this level. Add only 2-3 drops of ammonia. If not, add 5 drops of ammonia for every 10 gallons of water.
Day 4
Test the water for ammonia levels. If the 8.0 ppm mark was hit the day before...the water color from the test test kit should be at about the same level. The bacteria have not had sufficient time to multiply to eat the nitrates yet. Add another 2-3 drops of ammonia.
Day 5
Test the water for ammonia. There should be a slight decrease in the ppm's. Between 4.0 to 8.0. Add 2-3 drops of ammonia.
Day 6
Test the water for ammonia. There should be a distinct decrease in the ppm's as the bacteria are multiplying at an astronomical rate to devour the nitrates in the water. 24 hours for a bacterium is like 1000 years to you and me! The level is gonna be at or about 2.0 to 3.0
Day 7
Test the water for ammonia. The levels for a standard smaller tank, 30 gallons or less, will be at a level that fish can tolerate but not completely 0.0 yet. Using this method, I've had consistent readings for these size tanks of 0.25 ppm or LESS on the 7th or 8th day.
Important Points:
Larger tanks may take longer to cycle (over 55 gallons).
If you're using activated charcoal, return it to your filtration system once the cycle is complete. This will also remove the perfumes from "not clear ammonia", if you used it.
PLEASE DO NOT USE THE "SUICIDE FISH" METHOD...this is cruel.
Feeding a "fishless" tank method takes FOREVER! 6 WEEKS or longer! Why?...it takes longer for the food to be converted to ammonia! Duh! Why wait for something like fish food or raw shrimp to turn into ammonia when you can get it in its pure form immediately!
It is not necessary to turn a heater in your tank on...or turn your house heater on. The denitrifying bacteria will thrive in an environment that your fish will live in. Just keep the room temperature "not COLD". 72-82 degrees water temp is a good rule of thumb.
Using "live rock" or denitrifying bacteria from another tank is another excellent way to instantly mature your tank (this is THE BEST way to cycle your tank!)
Bio Spira(no longer available), Cycle, Safe Start have mixed results. I've used ALL of these and have still found the Pure Ammonia Method faster and 100% effective. At the least, these products might decrease the cycle time...who really knows?...Pure Ammonia definitely works and is 1/8 the price!
Abstract by an aquarium enthusiast of over 20 years. Double major in college with an emphasis in Zoology. Ichthyology(the study of fish) was one of my favorite classes! I've lived on an island for most of my life and maintained a number of aquariums, both fresh and salt water. Some of the fish in my aquariums, I captured in the waters off our beach house in Hawaii. I know fish! And hope this was helpful to you.

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